“There is this feeling both after surfing and when you are in the ocean. When you are in the water… You leave all of the problems behind. You are there in the moment, living in present.”
I’ve already mentioned surfing a couple of times on this blog. Through surfing, I’ve felt alive. Through power of the sea, I’ve felt the fragility of life. As a part of a school project, I’ve sat down with my instructor José Pedro Rocha, who has been surfing for more than 20 years, and asked him a couple of questions. We talked about harsh beginnings, feeling & philosophy of the sport, its current form as well as tips for starting out.
You can find the full interview here.